Area Description    Map: Major Birding Regions of Colombia
The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is the tallest coastal range in the world and where highest summit of Colombia is found: the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta reaching 5,700 meters above sea level. Nearly all habitats that occur in the Neotropics are present in the Sierra making it terrifically diverse and complex. The Sierra Nevada is home to numerous indigenous communities and Santa Marta city is located at its base. The Sierra itself is primarily dry forest with incursions of humid forest on the mountainous slopes.  Annual rainfall ranges from 1.2 meters in the mountains to less than a half meter along the coast.  The coastal areas are primarily dry scrub and xerophytic desert and also provide excellent opportunties to see Caribbean endemics. 

Birding Opportunities     Specialty birds of Santa Marta (pdf)
Birding the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta begins in the town of Santa Marta which is easily reached with a short flight from Bogota.  A 2-hour drive in a vigorous 4WD up the hill to reach the San Lorenzo Ridge is worth the bumps as the mountain slopes contain up to 16 endemics including Santa Marta Parakeet, Santa Marta Antpitta, Santa Marta Tapaculo, Brown-rumped Tapaculo, Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant, Yellow-crowned Whitestart, White-lored Warbler, Santa Marta Warbler, Santa Marta Mountain-Tanager and the Santa Marta Brush-Finch among others. 

In addition to the endemics, mixed flocks in the forest can hold Coppery Emerald, Streak-capped Spinetail, Trinidad Euphonia, Rusty-headed Spinetail, Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Santa Marta Foliage-Gleaner, Black-fronted Wood-Quail and Band-tailed Guan. The list of birds to look for here seems endless with Military Macaw, White-tailed Starfrontlet, Black-cheeked Mountain-Tanager, and Flammulated Treehunter. While walking the road at mid-elevation many excellent species can be entered including White-tipped Quetzal, Golden-breasted Fruiteater, Sooty-capped Hermit, several potentially split toucanets, Black-hooded and Yellow-legged Thrush and Rusty-breasted Antpitta.

Options for lodging include National Park cabins or the cozy El Dorado Lodge where birds around the building can include the superb Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Coppery and Red-billed Emerald, and Crested Oropendola.

Birding the Caribbean lowlands also begins in Santa Marta heading east along the coast to Guajira.  The route includes areas around Riohacha, Tayrona National Park and Los Flamencos Flora and Fauna Sanctuary and includes chances to see Buffy Hummingbird, Chestnut Piculet, Northern Scrub-Flycatcher, Slender-billed Inezia, Orinocan Saltator, and Vermilion Cardinal plus White-whiskered Spinetail, Glaucous Tanager, Black-crested Antshrike, White-fringed Antwren, Brown-throated Parakeet and Green-rumped Parrotlet, Bare-eyed Pigeon, Caribbean Hornero, Slender-billed Tyrannulet, Russet-throated Puffbird, Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant, Pileated Finch, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher and Tocuyo Sparrow. Around the coastal lagoons several species of shorebird are possible as well as Scarlet Ibis, American Flamingo, and Cayenne Tern. 

To the west of Santa Marta is Barranquilla and the route also includes good opportunties for birding. At Isla Salamanca, the endemic Chestnut-winged Chachalaca can be found near the dry cactus scrub. Mangroves and wetlands are filled with shorebirds, ducks, herons and terns and other species found here include Bicolored Conebill, Scrub Flycatcher, Bicolored Wren, Prothonotary Warbler and Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird.

Photos by Steve Bird:
Top: Santa Marta Antpitta. San Lorenzo Ridge 2009
Dwarf Cuckoo. Near Santa Marta 2009
Blue-naped Chlorophonia. El Dorado feeders 2009
Below: Russet-throated Puffbird. Santa Marta 2009.
Black-backed Antshrike. Santa Marta 2009.

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Sunday, 31-May-09: Transfer to Minca, ascend to San Lorenzo and El Dorado
This morning we were up and out at dawn to travel from Santa Marta to Minca and then up to the wonderful El Dorado Lodge.  Birding stops along the way yielded Pale-breasted Thrush, a pair of Lineated Woodpeckers, Stripe-billed Woodcreeper, a pair of Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls, Black-chested Jay, and Western Long-tailed Hermit.  At the bridge in the middle of Minca village, we had cracking views of an Orange-crowned Oriole as a flurry of activity ensued with White-vented Plumeleteer, Streaked Flycatcher, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Social Flycatcher, Black-throated Saltator, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Black Phoebe, Panama Flycatcher and a Southern Beardless Tyrannulet that stumped us for awhile. 

We worked our way up the hill stopping in various areas and adding Slaty-capped Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, a nice look at Golden-winged Sparrow, Yellow-margined Flycatcher, Buff-throated Saltator, Lesser Greenlet, Pale-naped Pygmy Tyrant, Blue-crowned Motmot, Rufous-capped Warbler, Tropical Pewee, and Red-crowned Woodpecker.  Another stop yielded our first Yellow-legged Thrush, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Broad-winged Hawk, Plumbeous Kite, Rufous-breasted Wren, Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush, Large-billed Seedfinch, and a pair of White-lined Tanagers.  We picked up the endemic Santa Marta Tapaculo and a Black-headed Tanager just before stopping for a cold drink at a roadside rest with Santa Marta Brush Finch coming to the bird feeders! 

We reached El Dorado Lodge and immediately checked out the gardens and feeders around the lodge.  Amazingly, the lodge feeders are visited by Blue-naped Chlorophonia and cameras clicked away at these striking birds.  Santa Marta Brush Finch visited the feeders as well and became a common bird for the rest of our time here.  Some Keel-billed Toucans were flying around but the feeders kept drawing our attention with visits from Andean Emerald, Green-crowned Woodnymph, Tyrian Metaltail, Green Violetear, Black-capped Tanager, and Black-headed Tanager.  When the fog lifted we had good views of the Crested Oropendolas nesting in a nearby Cecropia.

After lunch, we worked our way on foot further up the hill toward San Lorenzo.  Here we ticked our first White-lored Warblers and got good views of White-tipped Quetzal and varying views of the Santa Marta subspecies of Emerald Toucanet.  A Golden-breasted Fruiteater was less than cooperative but while we chased it, we picked up Montane Woodcreeper, Lineated Foliage gleaner, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet, Streak-necked Flycatcher, Blue-capped Tanager, Stripe-headed Brush Finch, and Masked Trogon.  During dinner, we enjoyed the antics of a Crab-eating Fox coming to scavenge the scraps under the lodge bird feeders. 


Monday, 1-June-09: San Lorenzo, then travel to La Guajira
After an early breakfast we ascended further up into the Santa Marta Mountains to San Lorenzo Experiment Station up to 8,000 feet.  On the way up Steve spotted a Sickle-winged Guan, the only one of the trip.  No sooner did we arrive at the station that our first Yellow-crowned Whitestarts were seen.  This endemic and the White-tailed Starfrontlet vied for our attention around the headquarter buildings and further up the road, we added Santa Marta Mountain Tanager, Santa Marta Tapaculo, Santa Marta Antpitta, Santa Marta Bush Tyrant, and a flock of seven Santa Marta Parakeets stopping briefly in a close tree!  This was endemic heaven!  Another highlight was a Montane Woodcreeper eating a scorpion.  On the way down from El Dorado we stopped again at the roadside rest and got quick views of a Blossomcrown visiting the flowers across the road. 

Other birds recorded above San Lorenzo (for complete list see Trip List): Blue-capped Tanager, Black-chinned Mountain Tanager, Tyrian Metaltail, Streak-headed Spinetail, White-throated Tyrannulet, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet, Black-throated Tody Tyrant, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, Rusty-headed Spinetail, Yellow-browed Chat Tyrant, Black-capped Tyrannulet, Slaty-backed Nightingale Thrush


Tuesday, 02-Jun-09: Riohacha, Birding Camarones, Santa Marta, Bogota
Today we had a full day to explore the dry scrub and forest habitat near Riocacha bird our way west from the Guajira peninsula to Santa Marta.  And what a day it was!  As the sun came up we were birding the dry scrub just off the road.  Northern Caracara, Tropical Gnatcatcher, and Tropical Mockingbird were common and we quickly starting ticking the specialties of the area including Slender-billed Inezia, Vermillion Cardinal, Pileated Finch, and Bare-eyed Pigeon.  Our first Glaucous Tanager showed well as did Northern Scrub Tanager, White-whiskered Spinetail, Scaled Dove, and Carib Grackle.  A flock of Brown-throated Parakeets flew over as did a group of a dozen Scarlet Ibis with one bright adult.  A lone Roseate Spoonbill, a Wood Stork, and a White Ibis flew over and a squadron of Brown Pelicans appeared reminding us that we were close to the Caribbean Sea.  A Harris’s Hawk was perched on top of the scrub and we had great views of Green-rumped Parrotlet and Spectacled Parrotlet perched up as well.  A Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture that flew over was cause for excitement as it was the only one we had on the trip.  Other birds in the scrub included a nice pair of Trinidad Euphonias, Black-crested Antshrike, White-fringed Wren, and Orinoco Saltator.  A White-tailed Starfrontlet whizzed by and a Red-billed Emerald was seen. 

We moved on to a wetland area near SFF Los Flamencos which held American Flamingo, Reddish Egret, Great Egret, and Snowy Egret.  A single Willet flew by and a Caspian Tern was roosting on an exposed sandbar.  Just down the road we walked into another scrubby area and immediately found a Russet-throated Puffbird perched near the track.  We had more good views of White-whiskered Spinetail as well as Pale-eyed Pygmy Tyrant, and a quick fly over Yellow Oriole.  We then drove through the village of Camarones as we stopped the vehicle; a Dwarf Cuckoo was spotted on top of a bush. For the next few minutes, we repositioned for views of this cracking bird in the morning light.  We then walked into the scrub to an area which held Bicolored Wren, Buff-breasted Wren, and offered more looks at Glaucous Tanager, Grayish Saltator, and Orinocan Saltator.  A wet area nearby held Wattled Jacana and Pied Water Tyrant.

The next area was a track between an air strip and banana plantation outside Camarones.  Here we studied the hummingbirds that were flitting around and picked up both Sapphire-bellied and Sapphire-throated Hummingbird.  Just above us was a Northern Scrub Flycatcher nest with chicks and there were Gray-breasted Martins flying around.  A little searching yielded a nice Chestnut Piculet.  Both adult and juvenile Savannah Hawks surveyed the open areas around the airstrip and a Pearl Kite inspected the grasslands from the far end of the runway.  As we drove further west, we checked the palm trees found some Blue-crowned Parakeets.  While watching those, we added Fork-tailed Flycatcher to our trip list.  A stop for lunch yielded Orange-chinned Parakeets behind the restaurant and after lunch we headed into the foothills of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta where it was a little cooler.  A roadside stop yielded Bicolored Wren, Cinereous Becard, and Red-crowned Woodpecker.

Later in the afternoon, we birded Tayrona National Park.  Here we added Scrub Greenlet, got better looks at Yellow Oriole and had another flock of Brown-throated Parakeets fly over.  Two Rufous-tailed Jacamars were seen just over the read and three very vocal Rufous-browed Peppershrikes seemed unfazed by our presence.  A Mouse-colored Tyrannulet was seen and a Yellow-breasted Flycatcher showed briefly but the start of the afternoon was a pair of Black-backed Antshrikes that showed very well right by the road.  As the sun was setting we made our way back to Santa Marta for our flight out adding our two last species - Ringed Kingfisher and Clay-colored Thrush.